Chapter Two - Someone's Father, Someone's Son - A Woman's Journey
May 1978...New Zealand Tonga Samoa Hawaii L.A.
The month is May, the year 1978 and I am footloose and fancy free. Surrounded by friends and family at the airport bar, in the days when Brisbane resembles a big country town and its airport small and personal, I look forward with eager anticipation to yet another overseas adventure. Three years have passed since the car, driven by Ian collided with a tree on a lonely stretch of road near Mount Isa. He was killed instantly. It wasn't his first accident when under the influence of alcohol, and that he surpassed his thirty-second birthday was more good luck than good sense.
In the five and a half years we lived together, most of our fights were because of his over indulgence with alcohol. Far too many nights, I had waited anxiously for him to come home, forever fearful of a knock on the door by a policeman, informing me Ian had either been killed or maimed - or even worse, that someone else had been killed or maimed as a consequence of his reckless drink-driving. I had left Ian long before the accident and in an effort to forget him, I travelled overseas where I worked and hitchhiked my way around Europe.
Almost three years would pass before I returned to Australia, and another four months before I saw him again. I still loved him, but not wanting to leave myself open to getting hurt again, I refused to go away with him when he asked me to do so. Two months later, I was on a prawn trawler on its way south to Cairns. In my possession was a letter to Ian, expressing how I truly felt and that I wanted to give our love another chance. I intended posting it as soon as we arrived in Cairns, only to find out on our arrival, he had passed on two days earlier.
Devastated as I was by his untimely demise, life goes on. And while there have been others who I've been in loving relationships with, Ian continues to remain a ghost in my closest. And as lasting happiness has so far eluded me in Australia, I'm hoping to find whatever it is I am looking for, by going overseas again.
My friend Clare and her partner Leo manage a hotel on the Swiss/French border and are keen for me to manage the hotel disco during the skiing season. In Holland, a former boss has offered me the executive housekeeper position at a large new resort on the dunes at Kijkduin, providing I am there by the beginning of summer.
Three and a half years have passed since I tearfully said goodbye to Hans, a Dutch guy, who I had shared some very loving times with in the six months I lived in Holland - and there's no denying that I'm looking forward to seeing him again. But before arriving in Europe, I have New Zealand, the South Pacific islands and the USA to look forward to.
In Paihia in the Bay of Islands, I stay several days with a former workmate, and in Russell I stay two nights with Lani, a beautiful Māori woman. It was her son Whetu who I had a brief, yet loving relationship with thirteen years earlier. He has since married and lives in Canada. Two days later, I return to Paihia on a large trimaran, owned by two brothers I met the night before at the Swordfish Club. After a cold night in Auckland, I look forward to my stay in Tonga, where I'll be wearing sarongs instead of multi-layered clothing.
Waiting in line to board the plane, I strike up a conversation with a good looking Tongan who introduces himself as Dan. He's an Economist with Qantas and returning to his island home for one week. With him are his two children from a failed marriage to an Australian. On our arrival, he organises a room for me at a friend's guesthouse. I look forward to spending more time with him.
As I walk along the oceanfront next morning, a royal guard and his wife invite me to a picnic lunch. Wherever I go, adorable uninhibited children follow. The market, abundant with fresh fruit and vegetables is the height of activity and ever so cheap. Tonga is a poor country with a basic wage of $2.50 a day, yet I see no signs of poverty.
Dan's father is the head doctor at the hospital and I'm welcomed into the home of their large and prominent family. I attend two large family gatherings. One is in a cave where we feast on two suckling pigs, yams and other delectable island delights - the other is at his grandmother's on Mother's Day - the food prepared by her son, the king's personal chef.
Before the Mother's Day feast, I accompany Dan to church. Directly opposite and facing the congregation is the King of Tonga, a giant of a man. Sunday is a holy day. It's okay to walk along the beach, yet it's forbidden to swim, play sport or partake in any other activities. While it's acceptable for Dan and me to walk together during the days unchaperoned, it isn't acceptable for us to hold hands, at least not in public.
At the Dateline Hotel, we dine with a nobleman married to a princess. At 5ft 6ins, I'm reasonably tall - even so, I'm glad I packed my three-inch high heels as I dance in the arms of Dan's massive 6ft 4in frame. His two sisters have come along as chaperones and after taking them home, we break protocol and go to a popular night club. Official closing time is midnight, but the bar remains open until 3 a.m. for select clientele.
I had suggested to Dan and his sisters we all go to the movies, and when they arrive without him, I'm told it's frowned upon for a brother to go with his sisters. TV hasn't as yet reached the island and the two storey, dilapidated wooden cinema is jam-packed with a very boisterous and appreciative audience.
To see more of the island, I travel on the local mode of transport, which is a truck with a canvas canopy and benches on either side for sitting. It's dirt cheap, unpredictable, and time inconsequential. An American artist who resides permanently at the guesthouse accompanies me to the spectacular blowholes. We wait one hour for the ‘bus' to arrive and another hour for it to fill up with people and their produce. With umpteen stops along the way, the 20km journey, on roads nothing more than dirt tracks takes another hour. Having gone as far as we can on wheels, it's a one hour walk to the ocean. It's well worth the effort as there are hundreds of blowholes along an 8km stretch of terraced coastline - the largest spouts going as high as thirty metres.
I attend another family feast on the night before Dan's return to Sydney, ever so grateful to him for sharing his island culture with me and to have known him, albeit so briefly.
Whilst relaxing by the pool at the Dateline Hotel a few days later, I meet an American who claims to be investing millions into the island. He boasts it will help the Islanders, but I suspect he's more interested in filling his own fat pockets. His colleague tries to persuade me to accompany him to Honolulu in a private plane, but as I don't want to miss out on my planned stay in Samoa, I wave him good-bye, having dined the night before with him and the captain on board a German ship.
After two weeks of the warmest island hospitality, I board a plane for West Samoa. It's the twenty-fourth of May when I leave Tonga, yet two hours later I arrive in Apia, one day earlier on the twenty-third, having crossed the International Dateline.
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At the Apia Guest House, I'm soon on friendly terms with a Yugoslavian couple from Melbourne, who are backpacking to Europe with their children. Tracey, a twenty-one year old Queenslander, I met briefly in Tonga is another happy resident. She's on her way to the USA for a modeling assignment. An Australian in the import/export business invites me to a Fia Fia (traditional Samoan dancing) and a tropical feast at the famed Aggie Grey Hotel. The palusami (creamed coconut baked in taro leaves) is absolutely mouth watering. I've just finished reading James A Michener's, ‘Tales of the South Pacific' and as his association with Aggie Grey inspired him to use her as the character ‘Bloody Mary', mentioned in the book, I'm thrilled when my dinner date invites her to join us for a drink. At eighty plus, she is still vivacious and entertaining.
I rise early to go snorkeling with an American couple. We dine that night on freshly caught fish bought at the markets. Commencing at sunrise the next day, I set off to explore the island on foot. At Solo Beach, I chat with Elinis who is a teacher at the local school. I graciously accept her invitation to visit her village the next day and to stay the night in the one room home she shares with her husband Peni, siblings and parents.
The house is the only one in a village of thatched roof and grass huts. On my arrival, I am given the warmest of welcomes. Except for a thin mattress, obtained for my comfort and placed in the centre of the room, the house is devoid of furniture. Everyone else sleeps on mats which have been rolled up and placed against the wall during the day.
Later, Elinis and I swim in pristine, crystal clear waters. On the beach, happy children throng around as I dance to the rhythm of their ukulele, melodious voices and squeals of laughter. Back at the village, Elinis, her family and I sit cross-legged in a circle on the floor to eat our evening meal. Several dishes of food are placed in front of me and after helping myself, the dishes are then passed to the parents. Not until the parents and I have finished eating, do the other family members help themselves. Dinner is followed with prayers and hymns. I can't understand the language, but I certainly feel their love.
I invite Elinis to accompany Tracey, the Australian/Yugoslavian family and me on a chartered boat ride to Monona Island, where we are told some scenes in the movie ‘South Pacific were made. A torrential downpour lasts the entire trip, yet on our arrival, in what can only be described as paradise, the sun shines in all its glory. The toilets resemble Aussie outdoor dunnies minus the flies, sawdust and stench and are strategically positioned at the end of rock paths, above the ocean.
On our last night in Western Samoa, Tracey and I both stay the night with Elinis and her family. My restlessness at sitting cross-legged hadn't gone unnoticed and I'm deeply touched that Peni has obtained a table and two chairs, God only knows where from. Before retiring, the family encircles our mattresses, and for the next hour serenades us with Samoan songs, wishing us a safe journey. Elinis gives me a lava lava (sarong) and her mother gives me a shell necklace. Over the moon with the Australian souvenirs I give them, I regret not having more to give. But then I realise it's the exchange of friendship that's paramount - and that's priceless.
A half hour flight and Tracy and I are in Pago, American Samoa for a fourteen hour stop over. We hitch into town. The American influence is prominent with wider roads and big cars, and houses instead of huts. At a luxurious resort, catering to the idle rich, we make ourselves at home on its private beach, reserved for guests only. The exorbitantly priced menu is way out of our price range, so we give our bodies a cleansing by eating papaya bought at the markets.
We're the only occupants in a cable car, when it comes to an abrupt halt on a steep and spectacular ascent across the harbour. Dangling unsteadily metres from the top, for what seems an eternity, we eventually reach safety. After our harrowing experience, and not wanting to risk a repeat performance, we make our way down the mountain on foot.
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At Honolulu airport, Tracey boards a connecting flight to LA whilst I remain in Oahu. Before making my way to Waikiki Beach, I book into a hostel. There's no risk of shark attacks in the water, but I've been warned of two-legged ones on land, who prey off wealthy divorcees. I don't fit into that category, yet could easily be mistaken for one. Sure enough, only minutes after I lie down to bask in the sun, I'm approached by a bronzed, good-looking blonde guy, no more than twenty-one. A smooth operator, he knows the right things to say to make a woman feel good, and a lonely and unsuspecting female could easily be sucked in. For fifteen minutes, he does his upmost to persuade me to accompany him for a swim. I suspect that as soon as he entices me into the water, an accomplice will take off with anything of value left behind. Realizing he isn't getting anywhere with me, ‘Mr. Smooth' goes in search of his next victim.
A friend in Dubai has given me the address of a guy who used to work for him. Believing Hawaii to be a safe haven like Tonga and Samoa, I hitch to Kaneohe on the west coast where he lives. A man drives me right to the front door and when no one is home, he kindly offers to take me on a tour of the island. Arriving at the most northern and isolated tip at dusk, I find myself in a precarious situation, when he lets it be known his intentions aren't honourable. Sizing up the situation, I play along and let him think I'm a willing partner, the same as I did in a similar situation in Greece. When he veers off the main road onto another one void of traffic, houses and people, my mind is racing with a plan of escape. On one side is the ocean with miles of isolated beaches - on the other side is bush. Inside the confines of his car, I don't like my chances, and to jump out unless he slows down isn't an option. He's about two stone over weight, so my only chance of escape is to make a run for it when the car is stationary.
We pass a phone box. A solitary car, parked on a beach a half kilometre further back gives me the opportunity I'm looking for. Having convinced ‘my captor' I'm a willing participant, I tell him that I forgot I'm to have dinner with a girl from the hostel, so need to leave a message informing her of my delay. I must have sounded convincing, as he does a ‘U' turn back to the phone box. My only hope is to make a run to where I saw the car. With heart pounding, yet trying to remain calm, I make out as if I'm dialing the number, all under the creep's watchful gaze. When he hears me ask a fictitious person to page the girl, he lights up a cigarette. He then sits back in a relaxed position to savour what lies in store for him. It's exactly what I had hoped for. My heart beats fast as I make a run for it. Without once looking back, I run as fast as I can on the sand, towards the direction of where I saw the car, ever so relieved it's still there.
Not knowing whether I'm jumping from the frying pan into the fire, I approach the sole occupant with trepidation. But the Forces of Good are with me. Don Kelly, a Russian linguist with the US Army is not only an officer and a gentleman, but my angel in disguise. After a two week stint in Korea, he's staying at Schofield Army base for two days, en-route to Boston and was enjoying his solitude when I appear from nowhere and ramble on about my traumatic experience. He kindly offers to drive me to the hostel. Somewhat shaken by the ordeal, yet feeling safe once more, I'm able to relax and enjoy the company of the stranger beside me, who just happened to be in the right place at the right time. He's a happily married man, but he enjoys my company and wanting to prove that not all American men are bastards, he invites me to dinner at the officers' club.
A band plays as we sip on cocktails in the bar, before adjourning to the restaurant. The next night, his last in Honolulu, we meet for a farewell drink. I feel very fortunate to have known him and will remain eternally grateful for the kindness he bestowed on me.
A conglomeration of interesting travellers are booked in at the hostel, but there are also local desperados to be wary of. To get away from it all, Kathy, an English girl who is hoping to hitch a ride on a yacht all the way to Australia, American Bill and his thirteen-year-old son (both gorgeous and feeling the loss of a loving wife and mother, recently passed on), English Andy, and yours truly, all catch a bus to Waimanalo on the western side of the island.
It's a clear night on our arrival and rather than share Kathy's cramped two-man tent, I feel relaxed enough to sleep in the open beneath the stars. Unbeknown to us, the campground has the worst reputation for theft in Oahu. David, an Aussie I met in Western Samoa joins our little group the next day. Another guy stops to chat. In the half hour he stays talking, his car is broken into. Fortunately, he carries his valuables with him. Another guy who has been away for the day returns to find his tent gone! I continue to sleep in the open, but Kathy isn't taking any chances and sleeps with her guitar tucked inside her sleeping bag!
David wakes to find a slit in the tent near his head. Luckily, his money was in the money belt around his waist, but the airline tickets and passport, placed beneath his pillow are missing. And as Kathy had sprung an intruder, sticking his head inside the tent during the night, the decision is made to leave. In Honolulu, I had on several occasions felt prejudice towards me as a white person - something I haven't experienced anywhere else, and as the only people targeted at the campsite were Caucasians, I suspect we are experiencing prejudice again. And while I suspect they have good cause to feel the way they do, it isn't a pleasant feeling to be on the receiving end. I had felt perfectly safe in the South Pacific and assuming it would be the same in Hawaii, it's a huge let down to learn otherwise. Everyone, except Kathy and me return to the hostel.
Kahana, a further 70kms north is recommended as safe, but we are warned to be on our guard. We decide to chance it and catch a bus there.
Hawaiian families are camped on the beach in huge tents and tarpaulins for the three months summer vacation and that's how we meet Linda. We tell her of our ordeal and she invites us to camp close to her. She proves extremely helpful and a trustworthy friend. In the ensuing days, she tells me she used to be married to an Italian and after the youngest of their three children commenced school, she was accepted at the Honolulu University to study law. It was there she fell in love with a fellow student, another big Hawaiian woman. Her husband took it badly when she left him, but when he realized she had left him for another woman, his male ego suffered all the more. The children seem to have adjusted, but he's having a hard time coming to terms with it. He visits the campsite often and even more so after meeting Kathy.
We're on the windward side and despite the lousy weather, Kathy's little tent holds up against the elements of nature. The night Kathy gets high with ‘Wild Bill', an intriguing American who is into yoga and meditation, I fall asleep reasonably early, oblivious to the rituals and paranormal taking place around me. According to Linda, Kahana is the sacred place where spirits congregate and as they're out in full force that night, she sprinkles salt around Kathy's tent and leaves offerings of food near the entrance. Further down the beach, at ‘Wild Bill's' campsite, Kathy is so spooked out by what she experienced of the supernatural, she returns to the hostel the next day.
Now that Kathy and the tent are gone, I move my sleeping bag beneath Linda's tarp. We have some wonderful in-depth discussions and I question how a woman in her early thirties, who has never desired other women before can suddenly find herself in love with one. Invariably, there is so much to be gained when people open up to each other without reservation. Travelling solo, as I have often done since leaving home at sixteen certainly broadened my mind and I'm thankful for that part of me which has embraced people from all walks of life - just by having known them has enriched my own
On my last night in Hawaii, four weeks after my arrival, Linda invites all her Hawaiian lesbian friends from university over for a party. They're all large and very butch, but that doesn't bother me. Accepting those for who they are and not judging them for their sexual preferences is paramount. Even so, after a few puffs of a joint passed around, I know it's time to bid them all goodnight when they begin to look even more like men.
After an exhilarating drive back to Honolulu next morning in Linda's red MG sports car with the hood down, and later a farewell lunch at the university, I board a flight to Los Angeles.
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Jane, an American lady who I met on the Greek island Tinos, four years earlier is at the airport to greet me. In her luxury cliff top home overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, in the prestigious Los Angeles suburb of Palos Verdes Estate, I am made most welcome.
A letter from my Egyptian friend Nadia awaits my arrival. I haven't seen her since our London days and when I wrote to her several months earlier that I was returning to Europe via America, she had decided to take her holidays at the same time and meet up with me in Houston. Due to unforeseen circumstances in Cairo, she's not arriving for another five weeks. With limited funds to last me until I commence work in Europe, I'm anxious about not having enough money to see me through. I'm more than welcome to stay with Jane until Nadia arrives, but Palos Verdes is miles from all the action and public transport almost non-existent. Jane offers me her car, but driving in heavy Los Angeles traffic on the opposite side of the road to what I'm accustomed to isn't for me.
It's disappointing to meet with subtle disapproval from my hosts for contacting Malcolm and Jeri, a black American couple, mutual friends asked me to look up. Concerned they won't be greeted too warmly, I arrange to meet them in downtown Los Angeles. Malcolm is a private detective and his long time friend Larry, who he used to work with at the Narcotics Bureau is Director in Charge of Securities at Universal Studios, and I'm over the moon when I realise we're going there.
From Larry's office, we have a bird's eye view of the entire complex. In the hallway leading to his studio, black and white portraits of famous stars line the walls. It isn't public knowledge that Rock Hudson is gay, so I'm shocked to see the lips on his portrait painted red. In the Celebrity Room Restaurant, not open to the general public, we dine amidst stars, directors and producers. I try to act nonchalant when introduced to several actors I'd seen in movies and on TV. After lunch, two commentators and one driver take us and twelve visitors from various parts of the globe, on a fascinating tour on the VIP bus - hired out at $250 an hour, which is more than the basic weekly wage in Australia. We pass a mini train in which 150 passengers are seated in half a dozen small carriages with only one commentator. When Larry takes us by car to show us what goes on behind the scenes, he drives through sections open to the general public. As curious eyes stop to look, hopeful of catching a glimpse of a famous movie star, I have an inkling of what it must feel like to be a celebrity.
I attend several cocktail and dinner parties. At a Bel Aire home, we sip on martinis on the patio. Our host points out a mansion, which he claims is in the process of being built for Mick Jagger. I'm introduced to a divorcee on the lookout for another wife, but as the talk consistently revolves around money - not only on that night but at every other social occasion I've been invited to, I find the whole scene boring and superficial.
Needing to be on my own and in a different environment until Nadia arrives, I make the decision to travel by train and bus to Central America. Cost of living is cheap south of the border and if I live frugally, I should still have enough money for the rest of my stay in the USA. To ensure I won't spend more, I leave the remaining traveller's cheques with Jean, who has kindly offered to drive me to Long Beach. From there, I catch a bus to the border of Mexico.

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